Microdermabrasion is one of the more recent skincare techniques and has enjoyed explosive success on the aesthetic market. It was promoted as an “instant facelift”.
Microdermabrasion is one of the more recent skincare techniques and has enjoyed explosive success on the aesthetic market. It was promoted as an “instant facelift” – an effective alternative to invasive and costly procedures such as surgery or the chemical peel. Lately more and more men have taken to the method, as something midway between “putting on cream” and microsurgery.
But what does the treatment involve, and how does it act on the skin?
The skin is made up of three layers: the epidermis, the dermis and the hypodermis. The one most exposed to the harsh factors of the environment (sun, wind, cold, pollution, smoking) is of course the superficial layer, the epidermis. It is made up of several rows of cells. The most important is the basal layer, whose role is to synthesise new cells that rise towards the surface and replace the degraded ones. In other words, its role is to renew the skin. The most superficial layer of the epidermis is the horny layer, the barrier between the harsh outside world and the body. In this layer sit dead and degraded cells, impurities and particles of dust, all of which give the skin a dull, tired, dehydrated look. When we apply cosmetic products to the skin, only a small part of them manages to cross this layer; most stays on the surface and weighs it down further.
Microdermabrasion is a generic term for the procedure of removing the superficial layer of the skin (the horny layer) by applying small abrasive granules.
Cracking and removing the horny layer is read by the body as an injury, and as a result the basal layer is stimulated to synthesise new cells to rebuild the epidermis. The result: new skin with an even texture and colour.
At beauty salons and spas, and in dermatology clinics, mechanical exfoliation treatments using crystals, shell or pearl particles, or sodium bicarbonate (salt) granules are commonplace. So the method has been in use for a long time. What is new is the arrival of professional dermabrasion machines working on the principle of a jet of crystals and a vacuum.
The vacuum lifts a small portion of the skin, and perfectly round microcrystals are driven against it under pressure; they abrade the skin and remove impurities and dead cells, clean the pores, soften fine lines and superficial patches, improve the look of post-acne scars, increase the tone and elasticity of the skin, stimulate cell division and the synthesis of collagen, and reactivate the functions of the skin. The impurities and the exfoliated material are then drawn away by an air pump.
After the procedure some swelling and redness may remain, which disappear within 24 hours at most. The treatment is repeated every 3 to 4 weeks and successfully replaces the monthly “cleansing” session at the beauty salon.
During the course of treatment, the doctor's instructions about which cosmetic products may be applied to the skin have to be followed strictly.
Indications and contraindications
Who benefits from this procedure: mild and moderate forms of retentional acne (microcystic, comedonal), enlarged pores, dull and tired skin, uneven texture, sun spots, wrinkles and fine lines, superficial post-acne scars, and dyschromia (hypo- and hyperpigmentation).
Of course, as with any procedure there are contraindications as well: active rosacea, capillary fragility, vascular lesions in the area to be treated, severe acne with papulopustular lesions, active herpes, warts, injured or traumatised skin, and anticoagulant medication.
In earlier articles I said not to believe everything written on the label of skincare products. In theory they are all good, but the active substances have to reach their target to produce the expected effect. If we apply them to congested skin, with pores full of dust and keratin, only a small part of the product will reach its target, which is why the skin needs perfect, deep cleansing before the effect of a product can be judged.
In the hope of having added one more brick to the foundation of “anti-ageing” knowledge, I wish you: be beautiful.